Despite the severity of the
surroundings (the audience sat on cold concrete plinths), Anderson constructed
a collection that revolved around 'softness' and the power of human touch. Gone
was the rigidity that has, at times, dominated his personal brand’s
collections. Instead, his garments were all carried by certain fluidity – nude
suede transformed classic trench coats whilst colourful leather appliqués were
stitched like patchwork onto cutout dresses. Prints from the Loewe archives
were transferred onto flesh-toned latex, a play on the idea of skin and
leather. Backstage Anderson said that today's show "was all about the
venue," where the fluidity of the garments stood out against the harness
of the show space.
Trousers channeled the spectrum of the
rainbow, made in leather and met by martial arts references, they came belted
at the waist, Judo style. Meanwhile suede came slashed, patched, spliced,
swatched and swathed in earthy landscape hues.
Soft suede, sleek leather, diagonal rib
knit, crocodile skin, jagged pleats, raw torn edges and woven surfaces advanced
down the rough paved runway whilst guests observed from breeze block seating –
the collection a stark contrast to the setting. SS15 was about changing it up,
turning things upside down and re-defining the language of Loewe, leaving us on
the edge of our concrete seats wondering, what’s next.
Credit: Dazed & Wonderland.