Emilio Pucci Fall Winter 2014 collection

Jun 25, 2014

It never hurts to go back to your roots. Over his five years at Emilio Pucci, Peter Dundas has soaked in the house's Italian jet-set heritage and turned the show into one of Milan's hot tickets. But for the Fall Winter 2014 show, Dundas tapped into his own history, and the result ranks up there with his best collections for Pucci.

One-part Native American, one part Inuit, one part American Hustle—and all of it skimpy, slinky, sexy, ultra-sizzling, slightly seventies stuff. Fashion is always skating on thin ice when it starts naming indigenous peoples as inspiration, one would have to say. But by the time Peter Dundas had whizzed the blankets, ponchos, furs, and cowhides through the blender… you could hardly trace the origins even if you tried.

Dresses are either very short, or very long—and either way, they’re there to showcase plenty of flesh. Admittedly, there’s chunky outerwear—a big, fluffy coat which is patchworked to look like lynx (but definitely isn’t), and beaver-lined parkas (the Inuit influence).

Still, an equal wonder is just how Dundas gets away with all this without being tacky. It can’t be easy when you’ve opted to dedicate yourself to a life of putting legs and cleavage on display, but the quality of Dundas’s fabrics, like the papery lamé, with a subtle rendering of the signature Pucci Orchidea print, as well as his exceptional talent for fit, made it all come over as a class act.

Under the creative directorship of the Norwegian-American Dundas, the Florentine print house (it’s a palazzo, actually) has gone places which couldn’t possibly have been imagined in the time of its aristocratic founder, Emilio Pucci.

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